FAQs

Use the terms below to learn more about your HVAC products

A-COIL--A heat exchanger (evaporator coil) consisting of two diagonal coils that are joined together in a manner that looks like the letter "A".

ACCA---Air-Conditioning Contractors of America.

AFUE--Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a gas furnace's efficiency in converting fuel to energy-the higher the rating, the more efficient the unit.

AHRI---Air Conditioning, Heating & Refrigeration Institute

AIR CLEANER (Also Air Filtration System)--- Removes airborne allergens from your home.

AIR CONDITIONER---Any device that can change the temperature, humidity or general quality of the air. More specifically, an air conditioner makes your home cooler, by drawing heat energy out of the house and transferring that heat to the outdoors

AIR FLOW VOLUME---The amount of air the system circulates through your home, expressed in cubic feet per minute (cfm). Proper air flow depends on the outdoor unit, the indoor unit, the ductwork and even whether the filters are clean.

AIR HANDLER--An air moving and/or mixing unit. Residential air handlers include a blower, a coil, an expansion device, a heater rack and a filter. Heaters for air handlers are sold as accessories. In some models, heaters are factory installed. The portion of your heating and cooling system that forces air through your home's ductwork.

ASHRAE-American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers- ASHRAE is an international voluntary organization for people involved in heating, ventilation, air conditioning, or refrigeration (HVAC&R).

The society promotes the general sciences of HVAC&R. The main Society headquarters is located in Atlanta, Georgia with local chapters located across the United States and throughout the world.

ASHRAE publishes a four-volume Handbook that serves as a resource for members, with one of the four volumes updated each year. ASHRAE also publishes a well recognized series of standards and guidelines relating to HVAC Systems. ASHRAE Standards are often referenced in other model building codes and in the US Green Building Council's Leadership in Energy Design (LEED) green building rating system.

BTU---British thermal unit; the amount of heat required to raise or lower the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. The heat extracted from your home by an air conditioner is measured in BTUs.

BTUh---British thermal units per hour. 12,000 BTUh equals one ton of cooling.

BURNER---A device that uses fuel to support combustion.

BURNER (SEALED COMBUSTION)--- A burner that obtains all air for combustion from outside the heated space.

BURNER ORIFICE---The opening through which gas flows to the air/gas mixing chamber of the burner.

CADR (Clean Air Delivery Rate) ---provides the number of cubic feet of clean air that a unit delivers each minute. Efficiency of the system times the air flow of the system.

CAPACITY---The output or producing ability of cooling or heating systems. Cooling and heating capacities are referred to in British thermal units (BTUs) per hour.

CERTIFIED MATCHED SYSTEM---The Air Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) puts heating and cooling equipment through rigorous certification processes to ensure systems deliver the promised performance at certain test conditions.

CFM---Abbreviation for cubic feet per minute, a standard measurement of airflow. A typical system requires 400 cfm of air flow per ton of air conditioning.

CHARGE---To add refrigerant to a system. This is refrigerant contained in a sealed system or in the sensing bulb to a thermostatic expansion valve.

COMPRESSOR---This is the heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit and pumps refrigerant in order to meet the cooling requirements of the system.

CONDENSATE---Vapor that liquefies due to the lowering of its temperature to the saturation point.

CONDENSER COIL (OR OUTDOOR COIL)--- Part of the outdoor portion of a heating or cooling system, which releases or collects heat from the outside air.

CONDENSER FAN---The fan that circulates air over the air-cooled condenser.

CONTACTOR---A switch that can repeatedly cycle, making and breaking an electrical circuit. When sufficient current flows through the A-coil built into the contactor, the resulting magnetic field causes the contacts to be pulled in or closed.

CRANKCASE HEATER---This is the electric resistance heater installed on compressor crankcases to boil off liquid refrigerant that may have combined with compressor oil. Many newer cooling systems do not require crankcase heaters, however heat pumps do require crankcase heaters.

DAMPER---Found in ductwork, this movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.

DB (DECIBELS)--- A unit to measure sound.

DEFROST---To melt frost (as in from an air conditioner or heat pump coil).

DEGREE-DAY---A degree-day is a computation that gauges the amount of heating or cooling needed for a building. A degree-day is equal to 65 degrees Fahrenheit minus the mean outdoor temperature.

DEHUMIDIFIER---An air cooler that removes moisture from the air.

DIFFUSER----A grille over an air supply duct having vanes to distribute the discharging air in a specific pattern or direction.

DOE---Department of Energy

DOWNFLOW FURNACE---A furnace that intakes air at its top and discharges air at its bottom.

DRAIN PAN---This is also referred to as a condensate pan. This is a pan used to catch and collect condensate (in residential systems vapor is liquefied on the indoor coil, collected in the drain pan and removed through a drain line).

DRY BULB TEMPERATURE---Heat intensity, measured by a dry bulb thermometer.

DRY BULB THERMOMETER---An instrument that measures air temperature independently of humidity.

DUAL COMPRESSOR'S---An outdoor unit featuring two compressors, one for every day cooling and a second larger one for extreme temperature days. Provides superior durability designed for cost-saving efficiency and low sound levels.

DUCTWORK---A pipe or conduit through which air is delivered. Ducts are typically made of metal, fiberboard or a flexible material. In a home comfort system, the size and application of ductwork is critical to performance and is as important as the equipment.

DX---Direct expansion; a system in which heat is transferred by the direct expansion of refrigerant.

EER---Energy Efficiency Ratio (steady state)

EAC---Electronically filters out magnetized airborne particles from contaminants in indoor air, sending them to a collector plate.

ENERGY STAR---Energy Star is a government-backed labeling program that helps people and organizations save money and reduce greenhouse gas emissions by identifying factories, office equipment, home appliances and electronics that have superior energy efficiency.

EPA--- Environmental Protection Agency

ERV--- Energy-efficient system to exchange stale indoor air for an equal amount of fresher outdoor air.

EXPANSION VALVE--- A refrigerant-metering valve with a pressure- or temperature-controlled orifice.

FAHRENHEIT--- The temperature scale on which water freezes at 32 degrees and boils at 212 degrees, designated by the letter F. To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit number, multiply by 5 and divide by 9 (77-32 equals 45, times 5 equals 225, divided by 9 equals 25 degrees Celsius)

FAN--- Any device that creates air currents.

FILTER--- Any device that removes impurities through a straining process.

FLUE--- Any vent or passageway that carries the products of combustion from a furnace.

FURNACE--- That part of the heating system in which the combustion of fossil fuel and transfer of heat occurs.

FUSE--- A metal strip in an electrical circuit that melts and breaks the circuit when excessive current flows through it. The fuse is designed to break in order to save more expensive electrical components.

GAMA--- Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association

GAS FURNACE HEAT EXCHANGER--- Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout your home.

HEAT EXCHANGER--- An area, box or coil where heat flows from the warmer to the colder fluid or surface. This is the main component of the furnace that transfers heat into your home.

HEAT GAIN--- Heat added to the conditioned space by infiltration, solar radiation, occupant respiration and lighting.

HEAT LOSS--- The rate of heat transfer from a heated space to the outdoors.

HEAT PUMP---A mechanical-compression cycle refrigeration system that can be reversed to either heat or cool the controlled space.

HEAT TRANSFER--- The movement of heat energy from one point to another. The means for such movement are conduction, convection, and radiation.

HEATING COIL---Any coil that serves as a heat source.

HEPA FILTER--- Filter that traps airborne particles by forcing air through very dense mesh.

HERTZ---In alternating current (AC electricity), the number of cycles per second.

HORIZONTAL FLOW--- Often used in attics/crawl spaces, this furnace takes air from its side, heats it and sends warm air out the other side.

HSPF---Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the heat pump system.

HUMIDIFIER---A machine that adds water vapor to the air to increase humidity.

HUMIDISTAT--- A humidity-sensing control that cycles the humidifier on and off.

HUMIDITY---The presence of water vapor in the air

HUMIDITY, absolute---Weight of water vapor per cubic foot of dry air, expressed as grains of moisture per cubic foot

HUMIDITY, relative---The amount of moisture in the air expressed as a percentage of the maximum amount that the air is capable of holding at a specific temperature

HVAC---Abbreviation for Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning

HYBRID HEAT (also hybrid system)--- Provides energy-efficient comfort for moderate heating conditions. Can use either gas or electricity

HYBRID SYSTEM (hybrid heat)--- This type of system provides energy-efficient comfort for moderate heating conditions. Depending on the weather and your comfort needs, it can use either gas or electricity, with an electric heat pump as the outdoor component and a gas furnace the indoor component

IGNITION---The lighting of a fuel to make it burn

INDOOR COIL (evaporator coil)--- Part of an indoor air unit, it functions with the air conditioner or heat pump outdoors to cool and condition

indoor air that flows over it by drawing out heat and moisture

INDOOR/OUTDOOR SYSTEM (split system)--- The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit (furnace or air handler).

Split systems must be matched for optimum efficiency.

INVERTER COMPRESSOR---The air conditioner and heat pump utilize inverter technology compressors to convert the electrical current from AC to DC. In doing so, the systems almost infinitely vary the compressor and fan speed motors. The air conditioner and heat pump can modulate anywhere from 40% to 100% of capacity, instantly adjusting to exactly offset the demands on the home. Because these units do not cycle on and off like a traditional system, they save a considerable amount of energy and reduce noise levels.

KILOWATT---1000 WATTS

LATENT HEAT---A type of heat, which when added to or taken from a substance, does not change the temperature of the substance. Instead, the heat energy enables the substance to change its state.

LOAD CALCULATION---Assessed by a dealer, the calculation factors in a number of criteria in your home (square footage, number of windows, year-round weather concerns) and determines what size components you should include as part of your total comfort system.

MATCHED SYSTEM---System includes multiple components designed and engineered to work seamlessly together to enhance overall performance, reliability and efficiency.

MEDIA---The material in a filter that traps and holds the impurities.

NATE---North American Technician Excellence-certification acknowledging a dealer/technician as one of the most knowledgeable and experienced at installing and servicing high-performance, precision-engineered heating and cooling systems.

NEC---National Energy Council

OEM---Original Equipment Manufacturer

OPERATING COST---Cost of running your home comfort system, based on energy usage

ORIFICE---An opening or hole; an inlet or outlet

OUTDOOR COIL (Condenser Coil)--- In a heat pump, it takes in heat to warm your home. In an air conditioner, it dissipates heat from the refrigerant, changing the refrigerant from vapor to liquid to cool your home.

PACKAGED SYSTEM OR UNIT---A single cabinet, typically installed outside, that houses both heating and cooling components

PAYBACK ANALYSIS---Number of years required before your monthly energy savings offset the original HVAC investment.

PSI---pounds per square per inch

PSIA---per square inch, absolute

PSIG---Pounds per square inch gauge.

PVC---Polyvinyl chloride; a type of plastic

RECIPROCATING COMPRESSOR---A compressor whose piston or pistons move back and forth in the cylinders

RECLAIMING---Returning used refrigerant to the manufacturer for disposal/reuse

RECYCLING---Removing, cleaning and reusing refrigerant

REFRIGERANT---A chemical that produces a refrigerating effect while expanding and vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning systems contain R-22 refrigerant. R-22 is regulated under the Montreal Protocol and in the United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. R-22 is scheduled to be in production until the year 2020.

REFRIGERANT CHARGE---The required amount of refrigerant in a system

REFRIGERANT LINES---Two copper lines connecting the outdoor condenser to the indoor evaporator coil

SEER---Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio; a measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the SEER rating the more energy efficient the unit is.

SEET---Seasonal Extreme Environmental Test; Trane facility that simulates series of rigorous tests to ensure the quality/reliability of outdoor units

SELF-CONTAINED SYSTEM---A refrigerating system that can be moved without disconnecting any refrigerant lines; also known as a package unit.

SENSIBLE HEAT---That heat which, when added to or taken away from a substance, causes a rise or fall in temperature

SENSOR---Any device that reacts to a change in the conditions being measured, permitting the condition to be controlled.

SETPOINT---The temperature or pressure at which a controller is set with the expectation that this will be a nominal value depending on the range of the controller.

SPINE™ FIN COIL---All-aluminum outdoor coil that features the patented Spine Fin™ design. It provides greater heat-exchanging capabilities (meaning higher efficiencies) and is more resistant to corrosion than a traditional copper/aluminum coil.

SPLIT SYSTEM---The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit (furnace or air handler). Split systems must be matched for optimum efficiency.

THERMOSTAT---A thermostat consists of a series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions of a heating and cooling system.

THERMOSTATIC EXPANSION VALVE---A refrigerant metering device that maintains a constant evaporator temperature by monitoring suction vapor superheat; also called a thermal expansion valve.

TON---A unit of measurement used for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000 BTUs per hour.

TWO STAGE COMPRESSOR---Compressor composed of a high and low stage to increase efficiency and comfort while reducing operation noise.

TWO STAGE HEATING / TWO STAGE COOLING---Two-stage heating and cooling is considered to be more efficient, because it operates at low speed most of the time. However, on days when more heating or air conditioning is required, it switches to the next stage for maximum comfort.

U-FACTOR---The factor representing resistance to heat flow of various building materials

UL---Underwriters Laboratories

UPFLOW FURNACE---A furnace in which air is drawn in through the sides or bottom and discharged out the top

VACUUM---A furnace in which air is drawn in through the sides or bottom and discharged out the top

VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR---The fan motor inside Trane's variable-speed air handlers is designed to vary its speed based on your home's heating and air conditioning requirements. Working in conjunction with your thermostat, it keeps the appropriate-temperature air (e.g. warm air on cold days) circulating throughout your home, reducing temperature variances in your home. It also provides greater air circulation and filtration, better temperature distribution, humidity control, higher efficiency and quiet performance.

VOLT---The unit of measure used to describe a difference in electrical potential, abbreviated by the symbol "v."

WATT---The unit of electrical power equal to the flow of one amp at a potential difference of one volt.

WET BULB THERMOMETER---A thermometer whose bulb is covered with a piece of water-soaked cloth. The lowering of temperature that results from the evaporation of water around the bulb indicates the air's relative humidity

ZONING---A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need; an air conditioning system capable of maintaining varying conditions for various rooms or zones.



ZONING SYSTEM---A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need; an air conditioning system capable of maintaining varying conditions for various rooms or zones

Controlling the air temperature and humidity in your home and maintaining high air quality are the basic functions of all HVAC systems. But how?

There are several types of HVAC systems that you may choose from to achieve these results. Some systems are more effective than others, depending on the climate where you live. Let's look at how several different types of HVAC systems work.

Split Air Conditioning System

First, why is it called a "split" air conditioning system? Because it has components that are located inside and outside the home-it's literally split into two pieces. You may have also heard it referred to as "central air."

Consisting of an outdoor unit with a condenser and compressor, and an indoor unit with a fan and an evaporator coil, a split air conditioning system works by removing warm air from your home and cycling it back as cooler air through a system of supply and return ducts. Powered by electricity, the compressor pumps refrigerant through the system to collect heat and moisture inside the home. That heat and moisture is removed from the home when the warm air collected inside the home is blown over the cooled indoor coil, which cools the air. The heat transferred into the coil during this process is pumped outside the home, while the cool air is cycled back inside.

A split air conditioning system is particularly effective in warmer climates, as it effectively keeps your home cool and reduces humidity levels. It also features a lower indoor noise level compared to free-standing air conditioning units, since its compressor-bearing unit is outside of the home. Central air conditioning systems, such as a split system, provide the added benefit of air filtration because, as a "forced air" system, air is drawn out of rooms through air returns and pulled through an air filter. This removes airborne particles and results in cleaner, filtered air being redistributed to your home through air supply ductwork.

Mini-Split/Ductless System

As you likely gather from its name, a mini-split/ductless system is a split system, which means it has components that are located inside and outside the home. However, unlike traditional split HVAC systems, it does not rely on air ducts to route air throughout your home. Rather, a mini-split/ductless system is designed to heat or cool a single room, a zone or an addition to your home that may lack or cannot accommodate ductwork.

A mini-split/ductless system is powered by electricity and comprised of a relatively small outdoor condensing unit and a compact indoor evaporator unit, which hangs on the wall to control and direct airflow. The "mini" in this type of HVAC system's name is a direct reference to the indoor unit's diminutive size and inconspicuous appearance. The indoor and outdoor components are connected via copper refrigerant tubing and electrical wiring, requiring an opening just three inches or less in diameter.

Widely recognized for their energy efficiency and extremely popular outside the United States, where ducted HVAC systems are rare, the mini-split/ductless systems are an excellent option for attics or garages that have been converted to living space, or for home additions that would require extending your existing ductwork.

Furnace

When you hear the word furnace, you may initially think of old technology like the large "gravity fed" furnaces of the early 20th century. But in modern, forced-air HVAC systems, furnaces feature far more advanced technology and play a larger role in your indoor comfort year-round.

Often matched with split air conditioning systems, today's furnaces not only do a great job of keeping your home warm during the winter, but the furnace fan, or blower, is also used to assist the air conditioning system in circulating cooled air during warmer seasons.

A gas furnace produces heat through the combustion of natural gas in its burner. The heat produced from this process passes through a heat exchanger. Air from your home's return air ducts is blown over the heat exchanger and warms the air. The furnace's blower then blows the warmed air into the ductwork, which carries and disperses it throughout your home.

As part of a forced-air, split system, furnaces benefit from air filtration afforded when air is drawn out of rooms and pulled through an air filter. Whenever the system is running, this cycle repeats, continually filtering and cleaning the air in your home.

Heat Pump/Air Handler

Don't let the name fool you. A heat pump, when matched with an air handler, is an excellent alternative for both heating and cooling your home. Just think of a heat pump as a heat transporter, extracting warm air from your home during the summer, and reversing operation to bring warm air in during the winter. Though it may be difficult to believe that there's enough warmth in outdoor air during the winter to heat your home, there is actually enough heat energy present in 32 degrees Fahrenheit air to keep you warm and toasty inside. However, in colder climates, a supplemental heat source may be required.

A heat pump is installed outside the home, similar to a central air conditioning unit. The unit's compressor circulates refrigerant between it and the indoor air handler, absorbing or releasing heat en route, depending on the season. It does not burn fuel to produce heat; rather, it just uses electricity to move heat into or out of your home. As a result, heat pumps boast less fuel consumption during cooler seasons when compared to gas furnaces. Its matched air handler resides inside the home, contains a coil and blower fan, and serves to circulate conditioned air throughout your home.

A year-round home comfort solution, a heat pump and air handler system is particularly effective in moderate to warmer regions of the country, and does a fine job of maintaining comfortable indoor temperatures and humidity levels. It also offers the air filtration benefits inherent to forced-air systems, because air is pulled through an air filter. This removes airborne particles and results in cleaner, filtered air being redistributed to your home through air supply ductwork.

Thermostat

A thermostat for your home's HVAC system can range from very basic and functional to extremely sophisticated and feature-rich. Generally speaking, the thermostat controls the operation of your entire HVAC system and provides precision temperature regulation. Newer digital, programmable thermostats, such as a ComfortNet™ Controlling Unit, feature both comfort- and efficiency-enhancing functionality.

For example, programmable thermostats may be set to optimally regulate the temperature in your home, based on your schedule and daily routine. Many offer precise humidity control, the ability to vary the temperature in various zones of your home, and advanced monitoring capabilities. Some programmable thermostats even allow for the remote control of your HVAC system via wireless devices.

The energy consumption of your HVAC system depends on its efficiency, the area of the country in which it's being installed, and the kind of fuel the system will be using. This can also make costs vary.

Energy consumption for an HVAC system is determined by several contributing factors, the most influential among them being: the efficiency of system components, whether or not the system is appropriately sized for your home, the climate where you live, and what you or your family consider ideal indoor comfort.

Let's start by examining some industry-standard efficiency rating systems and which are the most important when evaluating an HVAC system component and its expected energy consumption over time.

Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio

SEER measures the cooling efficiency of air conditioner or heat pump systems. Higher SEER equates to greater efficiency and energy savings. Federal law mandates a minimum 13 SEER rating in new cooling units. Daikin offers air conditioning systems with up to a 24 SEER rating.

Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency

AFUE is a rating system for gas or oil furnaces, which indicates how much fuel is used to actually heat your home and how much is wasted. Expressed in percentages, a higher AFUE rating translates to greater efficiency and lower fuel costs. So for a 90% AFUE furnace, just 10% of its fuel consumption is lost. Furnaces manufactured in the United States are required to have at least an 80% AFUE.

Heating Seasonal Performance Factor

HSPF rates the efficiency level of the heating mode of heat pumps. Higher-rated heat pumps afford greater efficiency and cost savings. A minimum of 7.7 HSPF is required from new heat pumps.

Wattage

Measure the amount of electricity that your heating, air conditioning and ventilation system will use in meeting your indoor comfort needs. Typically measured in kilowatt hours, the same units that your electricity company uses to charge you for energy consumption, wattage can vary depending on what "speed" your system is running. For two-stage and multi-stage (i.e., variable speed, inverter or modulating) pieces of equipment, the system can use a much lower amount of wattage when running at low speeds than high speeds. Wattage will be a key component of your operational costs for running an HVAC system, especially since your unit only needs to operate at its peak capacity on some of the hottest or coldest days per year. In everyday operation, the HVAC system requires only a portion of its capacity, which can be delivered more cost by multi-stage units.

It is wise to consider energy usage and efficiency in purchasing a new HVAC system. While more energy-efficient units may cost more upfront, these units will more than pay for themselves in cost savings over time. Ask your dealer to help educate you on the associated energy usage of the system you are installing.

Furthermore, the size of your HVAC system in relation to your home can have a dramatic impact on energy usage. If the system's too , it will be forced to work overtime with less efficiency and ultimately a shorter life span. The appropriate matching of system components, especially in a split system, can impact energy consumption.

Finally, where you live and how you set your target temperature are two more factors that directly influence energy usage. Climate with extreme heat or cold, by default, is going to require more from heating or cooling systems. Moreover, asking your system to do more to change the temperature between the outside of your house and the inside of your hose raises operating costs.

System Selection: For most individuals, selecting an HVAC is not something you can do with much confidence. That's why it's wise to get some advice from an expert, like Air Quality Mechanical a supplier of Daikin Comfort Pro.

There are so many options and factors to consider:

• Size and age of your home
• Number of rooms in your home
• Local climate considerations
• Local and regional utility costs
• Utility incentive and rebate programs
• Upfront cost difference and long-term financial benefits of upgrading to a higher-rated system
• Type of HVAC system that best addresses these factors for you in aggregate
• Warranties available

A Daikin Comfort Pro is specially trained to carefully consider all of these factors, as well as your personal preferences, when recommending an HVAC system. Allow one to help you determine initial cost, warranty protection, service options, maintenance options and operating cost, as well as providing proper installation.

What size and capacity do I need for my HVAC system?

This is also an area where the expertise of a Daikin Comfort Pro is invaluable. You don't want to invest in an HVAC system that's too small to do the job. Nor do you want an oversized system that will cycle on and off frequently and never reach peak operating performance-not to mention cause unnecessary wear and tear on system components.

Daikin Comfort Pros assess realities such as your regional climate, relative humidity levels in your area, the number of windows in your dwelling, total square footage of your home, the direction your home faces, the number of heat-producing appliances in your home, your home's insulation type, even the number of people that live in your residence. With all of these factors determined, your local Daikin Comfort Pro will help you make an informed decision that matches your exact needs and that will pay dividends in the long run.



Can I get a tax rebate or a utility rebate to pay for a new HVAC system?

The federal tax incentives for HVAC expired at the end of 2013. That said, there are many local, utility, state and other incentive programs to help fund the purchase of a high-efficiency system. A leading resource to check on these incentives (Database for State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency) is hosted by North Carolina State University, with the support of the U.S. Department of Energy and can be found HERE. The website covers high-efficiency HVAC grant, subsidy, loan and other support programs

While today's HVAC systems are built to deliver years of dependable service, inevitably problems with air conditioning ranging from the simple to the complex can and will arise. Here are several of the most common issues reported by homeowners and their HVAC service professionals:



Dirty Air Filters

Air filters should be changed regularly. Otherwise airflow can be reduced significantly, which can cause your HVAC system to underperform and eventually freeze.

Clogged Drain Lines

A common problem caused by dirt and other organic materials building up in the lines, this can cause water to back up in and ultimately overflow the drain pan-potentially damaging system components.

Blown Fuses

If your HVAC system isn't working, a breaker could have flipped off. Fuses are designed to protect your unit's motor and compressor from overheating. A blown fuse may be a sign of a larger problem with your system.

Low Refrigerant

Whether in the lines or in the coils, refrigerant leaks are often caused by system vibration during operation. If your system's refrigerant requires recharging, you have a leak that requires repair.

Dirty Condenser Coils

Located outside the home and exposed to the elements, condenser coils should be cleaned yearly. Failure to do so can negatively impact system performance.

Electrical Problems

Faulty wiring or worn contractors can be the cause of system outages and should be checked periodically.

Frozen Evaporator Coil

Obstructed air returns or clogged air filters can restrict airflow and cause the evaporator coil inside your home to freeze up. Low refrigerant level can also cause this problem.

Thermostat

These control devices can stop working and require replacement. You can also inadvertently turn them off or not have them on the correct setting for the season or your indoor comfort preference.

Like any other piece of machinery, HVAC systems require periodic servicing to ensure proper performance and the unit's longevity. There are routine maintenance tasks that practically any homeowner can perform, and there are more sophisticated, scheduled maintenance measures that most homeowners should leave to a licensed HVAC professional. We recommend having your system professionally serviced twice a year, ideally in the spring and fall before peak usage seasons.

Here are a some HVAC system-servicing tasks that you can do yourself:

Change or Clean Your Air Filters

Depending on the type of air filter you use for your air conditioner, furnace or heat pump, it is recommended to replace the filter every one to three months. If you employ washable filters, you should clean them once a month.

Clear Space Around Your Outdoor Unit

Keep grass, weeds or other debris away from your outdoor air conditioning or heating unit. Two feet of open space around the unit is ideal.

Whats involved in a system checkup:

• Check system controls to verify proper start-up, operation and shutdown
• Inspect condensate drain for clog
• Lubricate moving parts, specifically fan motor
• Check electrical connections and test voltage to motor
• Perform thermostat-setting diagnostics
• Thoroughly clean evaporator and condenser coils
• Conduct refrigerant level check and line inspection
• Clean and inspect the blower and associated components
• Inspect furnace components, including gas connections and valves, and burner assembly and heat exchanger